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TRAVEL BUG

Exploring the high country offers fresh approach to Yosemite

Over the past three years, I have been questioning whether Yosemite was worth the frustration.

Marybeth Bond Sheppard
By MARYBETH BOND SHEPPARD · 2 min read
MARYBETH BOND SHEPPARD / FOR THE ARKI got to relax in a hammock at Evergreen Lodge, located near Yosemite’s Big Oak Flat entrance, which features traditional cabins and luxury tents, a pool, hot tub, play areas and bocce courts. The property provides a base for visitors exploring Olmsted Point — with its views of Half Dome — and less-crowded high-country destinations like May Lake and Tenaya Lake.

For years, our family visited Yosemite regularly, camping under canvas, staying in tent cabins and hiking between the High Sierra Camps. During off-peak months, we booked rooms at the Yosemite Valley Lodge. We once splurged on the Ahwahnee Hotel but found the experience underwhelming. Today, standard rooms at the Ahwahnee command $515 to $1,259 per night depending on seasonal demand, and reservations must be secured months in advance. Over the past three years, I’ve endured last-minute cancellations and struggled to secure any reservations at all. I began questioning whether Yosemite was worth the frustration.

Back in early August, before the federal shutdown, I decided to research alternative approaches to experiencing Yosemite’s high country — hopefully with fewer crowds and complications. I discovered three lodges near the Big Oak Flat entrance: Evergreen Lodge, Rush Creek Lodge and Blackberry Inn. We secured several mid-week nights at Evergreen Lodge without difficulty, drawn by its reputation for secluded, natural accommodations.

At Evergreen Lodge, I immediately began exploring the property, photographing the individual cabins, swimming pool, spa facilities and extensive recreational amenities. The 22-acre grounds house both traditional cabins and 22 luxury tents, scattered throughout the forested landscape to create an authentic wilderness experience. The lodge has become a sought-after wedding destination — staff informed us that every weekend through fall was completely booked with ceremonies.

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A version of this story appeared in the Nov. 5, 2025, print edition of The Ark. See something wrong? Request a correction.
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